SCULPTOR UNDONE // SS 2016

Acephala
MSTEDDYGRL
FW2019-20

ON COLLECTION

Inspiration

The idea behind the collection has been summarized in a short story printed on clothes in a form resembling concrete poetry from the 1950s. The collection, building on Teddy Girls’ fascination with menswear is a shift in the streetwear domain - combining elegant, almost formal yet slightly off tailoring with contemporary easiness.

What’s common with the original Teddy Girls movement and imaginary persona created by Acephala for this collection is the genuine love of clothes demonstrated in a passion for cut and construction, openness to experiment with proportions and a taste for details. Basing on this, MSTEDDYGRL collection is an eclectic mix of tailored pieces, experimental jerseys and soft draperies.

Highlights

Core to the collection are suits or rather tailored pieces either matched together or worn as separates. They are mixed together to form 3-pieces-suits, vest suits, suits with shorts and costumes. Although easy-to-wear, all of them has something unexpected in terms of proportions or detailing. Statement herringbone coat with tailored notched collar and decorative gathered sleeves is actually a maxi puffer jacket. Classic black virgin wool blazer gets more nonchalant and feminine thanks to sculpturous, draped collar and elongated sleeves’ lining which crops out under cuffs of the sleeves resembling a flounce. Same construction ideas are also used in a narrow, long coat made of Alcantara. What’s more, soft cupro linings are also used outside of clothes, patchworked together and gathered to build exuberant forms of evening dress and bomber jacket. Another, more relaxed form of a 3-piece suit is styled together with sleeveless denim jacket lined with cotton fur, printed mini skirt and cropped jeans, all of them decorated with painted wool tape to highlight construction elements.

Dresses and skirts are subtly architectural, constructed by draping and layering. Alcantara shirt dress is a buttoned up dress with double partly folded bottom part and tie detail around the neck, which can be twisted to form a bow or hang down as a traditional tie. Sheer strap dress imitates lingerie-like top combined with midi skirt with high side splits.

Sportswear part of the collection is put together with sartorial hybrids. Ceylon yellow jersey resembles elegant bow-tie from the front, changing it’s character into club t-shirt with statement print when looked from the back. Crewneck patchwork sweatshirt loses basic character through layering with a feminine strap top. The same cut used in a tube mini dress makes it oscillate stylistically between cuteness and oddity.

Street character of the collection is enhanced by the use of silver snap buttons and narrative prints.

Fabrics

Clothes are made of luxurious and sustainable fabrics sourced in Italy, Portugal and Japan. The most distinctive ones include: sheer textured virgin wool crepe, black and herringbone virgin wool and Alcantara. All jerseys come from an experimental fabric house using solely organic cottons and recycling techniques. Colour palette of the collection is muted with dominant blacks, greys, whites and olives contrasted with Ceylon yellow and pure brown.

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Photo: Sandra Gałka
Model: Maresz Miciuła / AS Management
Make-up: Pola Dźwigała