ATTITUDES PASSIONELLES // SS 2015
Our premiere collection Attitudes Passionnelles is a narrative on hysteria. Looking into the photographs and patients’ stories originating in the 19th century Salpêtrière Hospital, we have created a garment set for a hysteric of the 21st century. Lost in the world of nomadism and fluidity. Tossed between the intimate and the public of her life. Seized on the verge of bodily sensation and bodiless image. Yet stern and self-conscious. Seeing own hystericity as a value and a drive to creativity.
Each silhouette forming Attitudes Passionnelles is dedicated to a figure from the history of hysteria: Augustine, Blanche, Genevieve – patients of Dr. Charcot; inspired him to research and “invent” hysteria, Sabina – Sabina Spielrein; Dr. Jung’s patient who became analyst herself, Hilda – Hilda Doolittle; patient, Freud’s close friend, poet and icon of LGBT movement, Lou – controversial writer and analyst Lou Andrea Salome, Ida – the real name of the best know Freud’s patient “Dora”, etc.
Garment constructions induce the opposing feeling of restraint and release. Tailored shirts and dresses draw from the shape and function of the straitjacket, whereas the draperies imitate the irregular shapes of tousled bedclothes that mantle the body.
Distinctive carded fabrics making the core of the collection – luxurious alpaca/kid mohair and linen/ acetate – are sourced from the Japanese experimental weaving house.
Design of prints and embroideries is based on drawings depicting the stages of the “major” hysterical attack made in Salpêtrière by Paul Richer to visually assist in identifying the newly classified disease – a hysteria.
In preparing prints, we have selected and singled out figures from Richer’s linear quasi-medical schema and arranged them into a new abstract pattern that works on two levels: from the distance figures form an abstract ornament, when looked closer, they reveal their figurative origin. Prints on cotton poplin, satin and chiffon were custom made in the Italian printing mill.