SCULPTOR UNDONE // SS 2016
“Sculptor Undone” collection is an homage to Alina Szapocznikow, her work and life entanglements. Out of all Acephala’s collections this is the most feminine and sensual, preoccupied with the body and its forms; build on contrasting forms of expression. Eroticism is matched up with anguish and fear, sensual cuts juxtaposed with the austerity of textile and the visually pop character of prints removed when viewed more closely.
It’s starting point rests in the sculptor’s workwear – bulky overall equipped with handy and spacious pockets. Yet the fabric selection alters its function: in one version, created from cotton and silk paper-like fabric it becomes an uniform perfect for heated days, in the other, created from textured fringy fabric it turns into avant-garde evening wear. The rest of the collection revolves around the construction based on an easy-fitting shirt with resized collar, whereas its formal scope is marked by two dresses: draped white with changeable and ample form and pink with hand-crafted bubbly structure.
Crucial element, as in every Acephala collection, is the fabric assortment acquired from experimental weaving houses based in Italy and Japan. Their distinguishing features include: the sensual surface and softness in contact with the skin. Surprising black fringy fabric created form irregularly interwoven narrow stripes of gossamer resembles light fur yet is light and has an openwork structure with certain level of visual austerity. Next fabric is a mixture of cotton and silk mimicking starched paper, soft yet coarse, easy in shaping. Finally, two base fabrics include quartz pink cupro and crêpe sablé.
A set of prints has been prepared for the collection indicating its sculptural inspirations. Play-dough figures of naked and half-naked female torso and multicolour breasts – direct reference to artistic language of Szapocznikow – has been photographed, scaled and arranged, and subsequently printed on silk base fabric, which can be found in dresses, shirts and trousers.
The “Sculptor Undone” collection continues our philosophy of playing on female stereotypes. On the one – sculpting – the very theme of the collection is the most masculine of the arts, associated with heavy physical labour, brawn and worker’s overall. On the other, referring to Szapocznikow herself, is an amalgamation of Eros and Thanatos, frivolity and severeness, sweetness and gloom, sensuality and deformity. These elements are the collection’s alphabet building its expressive language and expression.