NEO-SUFFRAGETTE // AW 2017-18
The latest collection by Acephala is inspired by women’s marches, both contemporary and historic, showing the legacy of the movement.
Individual silhouettes of the collection represent diverse types of personality, lifestyle and ways of dressing. The collection – a collective portrait of a modern suffragette – references street style, where avant-garde coats, elegant dresses, comfortable trousers and sporty t-shirts are mixed together.
Prints introduce the narrative element to the collection. Created by the Polish artist Dorota Pawlicka, they are based on photographs of women’s demonstrations throughout the history, showing both images from the XIX century suffragettes’ marches and those showing the Polish Black March and demonstrations in Washington, D.C. All the drawings have been combined together into one pattern and printed onto fabrics that have then been used to make a t-shirt, leggings, a skirt and a shirt.
A heavy, rainproof coat created by fusing two pieces of clothing – a sporty, high-collared zipped jacket, decorated with multiple cuts, and a minimalistic outer coat – is one of the collection’s most gripping pieces. Similar cuts are used in the yoke of the skirts, while the shape of the pockets reference both noble and military styles. Characteristic boxy pockets with big, decorative, metal buttons and square flaps are a distinctive element of numerous pieces, including jackets and skirts. Dresses and shirts have wide elbow-length sleeves and scaled up stand-up collars. Their form stems from multiple folds, pleats and cuts that create an illusion of depth and sculptural form, visible especially in the voluminous triple neckline black dress.
The street character of the collection has influenced the fabrics selection. Multiple types of cotton (drill, twill, corduroy and jersey) and technical polyamide are used. Abaca, the key collection fabric – based on Filipino fibre – is sourced from an experimental Japanese weaving house. Its unusual and durable structure translates into the exuberant, unbridled line of the pieces made out of it: showpiece dresses and a jacket.
Although the collection is predominantly women’s wear, there are two pieces – a shirt and t-shirt – that are men’s wear, so that they can actively support the good cause.
To strengthen the message of the collection there are also socks and hand warmers with popular demonstration slogans.