Don’t Kiss Me // AW 2015-16
Acephala’s Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection “Don’t kiss me” is a homage to French avant-garde photographer and writer Claude Cahun (1894-1954). Cahun (a.k.a. Lucy Schwob) throughout her life and work had surpassed gender binaries and played with the fluidity of identity taking up a male name and living with her partner – Marcel – likewise a female. In a series of self-portraits she was building various forms of “I” taking up a male, child, artists, etc. figure.
With the current collection we wanted to translate this elusiveness into the language of fashion. To do so, we have coined a negative definition of woman as: “not-man” and “no- longer-child”, and by getting together what she is not, and turning it into what she might be, sought to blur the traditional binaries of male/female, mature/childish.
The forming structural components of the collection are inspired by male tailoring: suits, long coats, vests, collar shirts, straight-legged trousers. Dresses and blouses are straight and elongated in silhouettes.
An opposition to the strict construction of clothes stands in the fabrics and details. Custom made thick and soft jacquard with deconstructed checked pattern and heart and lips applications resembling child-like drawings – a motive from Claude Cahun’s self-portraits – is the prime fabric to the collection. The heart/lips motive in slightly different scale can also be found on soft wool jerseys. Photographic, somewhat naïve, still-lifes printed on silk satin forming the shirt are an Instagram play with Cahun’s work. The thick fleece sweatshirts, dress and the jumpsuit hold hand-cut squares and lips filled with recycled satin bringing in the element of craftsmanship and ornamentation.
Supplementary fabrics for the collection has been sourced in innovative weaving houses in France, Italy and Japan. Among them the very distinctive mixture of cotton and silk soaked in rubber having a very unusual touch and slightly carded look. Collection fabrics also include luxurious baby alpaca and kid mohair as well as creased Japanese denim – all the fabrics being very tactile and making the clothes created out of them very sensual in wearing.
Identity is a form of creation